Containing some of the most unique landscapes in all of Alaska, three mountain ranges meet here not far from a Cook Inlet coastline dotted with rainforests and an alpine tundra where glaciers and glacial lakes help feed salmon-bearing rivers. Two volcanoes dwell within the mountainous surroundings, one still highly active. Such a wide variety of ecosystems located all in one place mean this area is home to virtually all terrestrial and marine animals found in Alaska. Of course, the area is most known for its brown bears who migrate here each year to feed in the rivers, considered the most productive watershed for salmon spawning. Relatively isolated even into the modern day, its separation from the rest of the world is what has made Lake Clark National Park a bastion for Alaska’s natural wonders, wildlife and heritage. |
History
Between 10,000 and 7,500 years ago, the Bristol Bay area was occupied by prehistoric peoples known as the Paleo-Arctic People. Believed to have arrived in Alaska via the land bridge over the Bering Strait to Siberia, these people subsisted mainly on hunting and fishing. Tools consisting of wood, antler and bone points have been found as have microblades, bifaces, scrapers and graving tools. Many of the settlements created by these people were lost due to rising sea levels. |
In addition to helping transport people and goods, the trail was likely routed around the best locations in the area for subsistence hunting and harvesting, helpign it serve of double purpose for migratory peoples. While use by the native peoples declined as these peoples left the area or died off, the trail continued to be used by miners, trappers, and explorers. Today, much of the old trail has been established as a Historic District and Cultural Landscape and is popular with backpackers wanting to see the area the way its original inhabitants did. |
The area was renamed Lake Clark after John W. Clark, the owner of the Nushagak trading post and largely believed to be the first white American to see the lake. He reached the area after a weekly magazine financed his expedition there in 1891. Clark has remained a largely elusive historical figure with not much known about him or his background. The first 20 years of his life are surrounded in mystery and most of his papers were destroyed during the San Francisco earthquake. He arrived in Alaska as early as 1865 working with the Alaska Commercial Company and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. He returned to San Francisco in 1870 and then back to Alaska in 1879. Clark Pass and Clark's Point were also named after him. It is known he lived in Nushagak between 1879 and his death in 1896. |
By 1921, Tanalian Point was welcoming the first sport hunters who came to Lake Clark. Wealthy big game hunters from California and New York paid to come in and hunt native Alaskan wildlife. As mining tappered off, commercial fishing and fur remained prominent local industries. The first aircraft landed on Lake Clark in 1930, a Waco 10 biplane on floats, and helped connect the area more to the outside world. The first air taxi service was established 12 years later, but tourism really took off during the 1950s. As the demand for furs declined, tourism became the area’s major industry. |
Preservation for the park came in the form of a national monument designation rendered by President Jimmy Carter in Dec. 1, 1978. Carter created several national parks in response to Congress’ delay in action on the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA), a law that was designed to resolve land ownership issues between indigenous Alaskans as well as stimulate the state’s economy. When the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) was signed on Dec. 2, 1980, the national monument was established as a national park and preserve |
Ecology and Geology
The park today is home to a number of active faults with the Lake Clark Fault between the Alaska Range and Chigmit Mountains the largest. This fault passes right under Lake Clark and Lake Clark pass. The Telaquana and Mulchatna faults also run to the east. Part of the Ring of Fire, these faults have helped create mountains and still produce earthquakes and volcanic eruptions in the area. The Chigmit and Neacola Mountains were formed through stratovolcanoes over years. |
The park preserves more than 123 miles of coast between Chinitna and Tuxedni Bays along Cook Inlet and the Kenai Peninsula. One of the most unique aspects of the coastal ecosystem in the park are the coastal salt marshes, which are considered one of the most productive ecosystems in the world. A critical hunting source for bears when they return from hibernation, these salt marshes cover less than a percent of the parkland but are critical to the survival of numerous creatures. Salmon come through here during spawning time and shorebirds, songbirds, moose, river otters and other mammals feed here. Tidal streams in the marshes are important spawning grounds while the mud flats provide places for bears to dig razor clams and bivalves in low tides. The two biggest marshes are at Chinitna Bay and Silver Salmon Creek. |
Boreal forests dominate much of the park’s woodlands with white spruce, black spruce and birch trees accounting for the majority of trees that grow in the park. Often most and swampy, the boreal forest is also referred to by some as a taiga biome. Growing close to the North Pole, this habitat is home to not only trees but a wide variety of plant life. Often marking the transition into arctic territories where plants find it hard to grow, the boreal forest can be highly susceptible to disease, insects, weather, floods and fire. Outbreaks of infestation by the spruce bark beetle as well as climate change have had a detrimental effect on the park. An outbreak of spruce needle rust has also impacted the park and nearby Kenai Fjords National Park and Kachemak Bay State Park. |
Three mountain ranges can be found in the park and two of them - the Neacolas and Chigmits - actually intersect here. The Neacola Mountains are the southernmost portion of the Alaska Range, which includes Denali (formerly Mt. McKinley) the tallest mountain in North American. The Chigmit Mountains are part of the Aleutian Range, which consists of dozens of volcanoes. These two mountain ranges are only separated by the Lake Clark pass at 1,050 feet. The pass is the primary aviation route into the park. A larger segment of the Aleutian Range also stretches into the park from Iliamna Lake. |
Landmarks
The Pass comes out near Summit Lake, which is feed by the Tlikakila River or Iiq’a Qilanhtnu. Double Glacier is located below the lake, feeding bauch of the Big River and Drift River below the Glacer, which both flow into Redoubt Bay. The Bay is named for Redoubt Volcano, which is located in glacial area between Drift Driver and the Crescent River. The Chigmit Mountains and Aleutian Range provide somewhat of a natural boundary between the eastern third of the park and the central third of the park. |
The Tlikakila River bisects much of this central section though some might think it is too thick to be a river. The river feeds into Otter Lake, Lake Clark and Little Lake Clark below the river. The Choptank River is feeds into the lake. West of the Tlikakila River are several other lakes including Twin Lakes (Nilqidlin Vena), which is home to the Richard Proenneke Historic Site. The beginnings of the Kijik River, Portage Lake, Lachbuna Lake (Ni’ali Vena), and Portage Creek are also in this area. |
Much of the western third of the Lake Clark National Park and Preserve is the preserve land, the area of the park where hunting is permitted. Many of the parks lakes are also located in this area. The Stony River flows from the northern boundary of the preserve while the Necans River feeds the Twin Lakes, known in the local language as Tutnutl’ech’a Vena. South of the river is the Telaquana River, which feeds into Telaquana Lake or Dilah Vena. There is an old village site near where the river and lake connect. |
The Kijik Site is located near where the Kijik River feeds into the lake, though much of the land near is belongs to the Native Corporations Lands. Created as part of ANCSA, these regional village lands are administers through the Bristol Bay Native Corporation, one of the original 13 corporations created through the act. Native shareholders are able to earn profit based on tourism, fishing, hunting and other business done on these lands. The native corporation is private land and other permits or permissions may be necessary to enter. |
Flora and Fauna
While there is only a small portion of coastline in the park, there are still several marine mammals found in the park. These include the orca, beluga whale, harbor seal, and harbor porpoise. The beluga whale is the only confirmed endangered species known to live within the waters park, though other endangered species - such as the humpback whale and Steller’s sea lion, have been occasionally reported in the area. |
Birds, however, are much more frequently spied in the park, and Lake Clark has become known for its birding. Spring is typically considered the best time to come bird watching in Lake Clark because of the migratory patterns that bring a wide variety of species to the park - nearly 200 in total. Raptors and birds of prey known to dwell within the park include the northern goshawk, sharp-shinned hawk, golden eagle, rough-legged hawk, northern harrier, bald eagle, osprey,merlin, peregrine falcon, gyrfalcon, American kestrel, short-eared owl, boreal owl, great horned owl, great gray owl, or northern hawk-owl. |
The Rufous hummingbird can be found here and in the woods, visitors might hear or see the northern flicker, American three-toed woodpecker, Downy woodpecker, three-toed woodpecker, or hairy woodpecker. Songbirds and others in the park include a variety of larks, buntings, creepers, dippers, ravens, jays, magpies, juncos, sparrows, redpolls, siskin, finches, crossbills, blackbirds, shrikes, pipits, wagtails, chickadees, warblers, thrushes, kinglets, robins, flycatchers, and grebes. |
Willows, birches, alders, and spruces are the most common trees located in Lake Clark. While the genuses and families of trees found in the national park are not necessarily diverse, Lake Clark does have several specific tree species found throughout the parkland. These include mountain alder, Siberian alder, resin birch, Kenai birch, dwarf birch, water birch, paper birch, balsam poplar, black cottonwood, feltleaf willow, Alaska willow, littletree willow, arctic willow, Barclay’s willow, Barratt willow, long beaked willow, undergreen willow, Alaska bog willow, grayleaf willow, glaucous willow, halberd willow, Pacific willow, barrenground willow, oval-leaf willow, skeletonleaf willow, diamondleaf willow, polar willow, firmleaf willow, beautiful willow, netleaf willow, Richardson’s willow, least willow, Scouler’s willow, Sitka willow, sprouting leaf willow, common juniper, white spruce, and black spruce. |
The park is also known for various shrubs, many of which have long been used for food and healing properties by native peoples. These plants include bunchberry, scarlet elderberry, baneberry, crowberry, Labrador tea, wintergreen, bilberry, bog blueberry, lowbrush cranberry, serviceberry, buffaloberry, beach strawberry, arctic blackberry, dwarf raspberry, Nagoon berry, cloudberry, creeping raspberry, salmonberry, skunk currant, prickly currant, trailing black currant, and red currant. |
Things to Do
Animal viewing is one of the most popular activities at Lake Clark National Park, and the two biggest sites for wildlife watchers are the bears and birds of the area. Birders often come to see seabirds, shorebirds and raptors. The Tuxedni Bay coastline is a known nesting place for Peregrine falcons and the Cook Inlet coastline is known for frequent bald eagle sightings. |
There are several ways to explore the parkland, and biking has become especially popular. Unlike most national parks, however, most cyclists come to the park in winter. Fat tire bikes work well in the snowy park and even allow riders to cross ice-covered lakes and rivers. February and March are often considered the best time for these winter bike treks. Those who are planning on biking the park are asked to do thorough planning and know the environment before they set off for their personal safety. |
Hikers who want to experience something longer and more challenging than any of the day hikes can trek across the park in one of several backcountry routes. Some of these treks may require hikers to be brought into certain areas of the park via boat or air taxi. Guided hikes can also be booked through various park concessionaires. Hikers should prepare for trips by reading up on bear safety, knowing how to safely camp in the wilderness, and making sure they have appropriate hiking and camping gear before setting off. |
For views of mountain lakes, visitors can fly in to start on the moderate Hope Creek Route, which takes visitors through some of Dick Proenneke’s old stomping grounds. The Hope Creek Valley is the main target of this hike and takes visitors from lakes to moraines to glaciers. The Kontrashibuna Lake Trail is the only hike that can be accessed via the maintained trails in the Tanalian Trails area. Between 17 and 14 miles, this trail can take 10 to 15 hours to complete and follows a moderate route with some elevation change. This is also a popular area for fishermen to camp out. |
Lake Clark’s Holy Grail for backpackers is the Historic Telaquana Trail, a route that has been used since prehistoric times. Pioneered by the local Dena’ina peoples, this trail typically takes two to four days to complete and is on gentle to moderate grounds over alpine tundra with three river crossings. The northern terminus of the trail is typically considered to be Telaquana Lake while the southern terminus is Lower Twin Lake. Many take the opportunity to explore the tundra plains in between, though there is a more direct route near the outlets Turquoise and Lower Twin Lakes. |
Boating is another way to get on the park’s waters. Lake Clark, Crescent Lake, and the Cook Inlet are the only areas open to power boating. These boats can be rented from businesses in the area or visitors can charter one from a commercial operator. Those wanting to kayak, canoe or raft the park can access a wider variety of waters, though floatplanes and air taxis may be needed to reach some destinations. |
Further Reading
- Lake Clark National Park & Preserve | U.S. National Park Service - Lake Clark National Park is a land of stunning beauty where volcanoes steam, salmon run, bears forage, craggy mountains reflect in shimmering turquoise lakes, and local people and culture still depend on the land and water of their home. Solitude is found around every bend in the river and shoulder of a mountain. Venture into the park to become part of the wilderness.
- Lake Clark National Park | National Geographic - Diversity is Lake Clark's hallmark. The Turquoise-Telaquana Plateau has tundra similar to Alaska's North Slope, while the coast has forests similar to the southeast panhandle. Black bears and Dall's sheep reach their southern limits here, and Sitka spruce, Alaska's state tree, reaches its northern limit. Three rivers—the Mulchatna, Chilikadrotna, and Tlikakila—have been officially designated part of the Wild and Scenic system.
- Lake Clark National Park and Preserve | National Park Foundation - Lake Clark National Park and Preserve is a composite of ecosystems representative of many regions of Alaska. The spectacular scenery stretches from the shores of Cook Inlet, across the Chigmit Mountains, to the tundra covered hills of the western interior. The Chigmits, where the Alaska and Aleutian Ranges meet, are an awesome, jagged array of mountains and glaciers which include two active volcanoes, Mt. Redoubt and Mt. Iliamna.
- Lake Clark National Park & Preserve | National Parks Conservation Association - This vast Alaskan wilderness is close enough to Anchorage to be fairly accessible (by plane), yet its wild, stunning offerings are often overlooked. Visitors can kayak on the lake or the park’s rivers and backpack through the tundra amid spectacular mountain scenery, including two active volcanoes smoking in the distance. This park is also an excellent place to observe brown bears—professional guides specialize in trips to see them—as well as other wildlife, including caribou, moose, and a variety of birds.